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Satay House

Us cosseted, spoilt journalistic types here at Itchy appreciate great service. We love being looked after, made to feel like the superhuman beings we are, and all that rot. But sometimes it's too much...

That's what is so great about Satay House: a cosy little Malaysian eatery, tucked amid the residential side streets, which surround that real London anti-climax, Paddington station.

Never do you feel rushed or suffocated here as you eye up the impressive menu. The variety of dishes and flavours on offer is baffling, but somehow seems easy to take in and choose. Perhaps it was the rather tasty Macon-Villages, Bouchard Aîné et Fils 2006, one of a small, but complete wine-list.

You want Satay? They got it, of course. But delve a little deeper and you'll be treated with meat, fish and vegetarian options to suit all palates. Special mention has to go to the Udang Galah Masak Lemak Cill Api (it's a mouthful), spicy prawns in coconut gravy with pineapple and chillies – or anything involving peanut sauce.

Pudding? Banana fritters served up with dark chocolate ice cream. End of story.

Satay House has been alive and kicking since 1973 – the décor has been slickly improved since then – and is still a big hit with the locals; as a packed restaurant, late on a Thursday night, certainly attests.

Try it now. PD

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