Harry Ramsden's

Pan-Asian loveliness abounds at Tamarai. In fact, it's so good that when we were there, Brendan Cole from 'Strictly Come Dancing' was loitering at the bar. The dￃﾩcor's trying harder to be contemporary than the latest Madonna comeback, with widescreen TVs displaying screensaver-esque visuals on black walls studded with jewels the size of Mandrake's cane tip. Masters of magic they might be, but there's no fear or illusion when it comes to the food - clean, sub-continental flavours compete to inspire you to make the sort of noise more commonly associated with pan-Asian massage parlours than restaurants.

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