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The Albany

Itchy had a little tiff with our beloved, Mr C, recently. We took him for a conciliatory French feast at The Albany - our thinking being: if food can't restore romance, what will? Itchy reckons that if all the world leaders sat round together and shared some glorious gourmand-gorging, the world would be a less war-torn place. It's time politicians made food, not war.

Anyway, back to Itchy's domestic and our dinner. The evening began a trifle awkwardly as we sat down, coyly avoiding each other's eyes by studying the menu. This restraint was short-lived: from the moment our canapés arrived, love was in the air. Sitting pretty on a simple plate were four button-sized toasts, blessed with two velvety-smooth pate purees: one chicken, with a shard of gherkin on top, and one salmon, with a zingy shard of apple. A bowl of crusty baguette with a hunk of butter added bulk to our biscuity nibbles.

Itchy and Mr C smiled tentatively at each other and moved our chairs a little closer.

For starters, Itchy made an uncharacteristic, bold choice (we don't normally take risks where food is concerned, and neither should you) by plumping for Gravadlax with sweet mustard sauce. Mr C chose Mediterranean risotto with vegetables and smoked cheese. Both arrived promptly, the risotto emanating a heady fragrant steam. Pillowy mounds of gravadlax sprawled across Itchy's plate, dotted with peppery sauce. The succulent salmon, sweetened with zesty dill and served with lashings of crisp salad, was a culinary poem on the tongue. Mr C's risotto sat proudly in a pool of melted smoked cheese, the juicy rice grains dashed with slivers of jewel-bright red and yellow pepper. It tasted as good as it looked; the rice nicely al-dente, putting up just the right amount of resistance to the chew (Itchy hates flaccid rice) and the whole dish punctuated with fresh, spring flavours.

Itchy and Mr C held hands and batted eyes at each other.

For mains, Itchy devoured slivers of duck, with, wait for it, a VANILLA mash! The sweetness of the vanilla, teamed with the mash's milky creaminess was perfection, set off by the rich, earthy duck (rose pink at the centre and covered in a meaty jus). Mr C had meltingly soft lamb, with a tapenade mash and equally alluring al-dente veg. To keep thirst at bay (and romance levels soaring) we supped a sweet, silky Rioja.

Itchy and Mr C played footsie with each other under the table.

Everyone knows the seductive value of a pudding, so in the name of domestic harmony, Itchy plumped for a crème caramel. The Albany's take on this sexy little strumpet didn't disappoint; the crunchy caramel-crust a sumptuous contrast to the smooth, indulgent custard. A little pot of red and black berries in a fruit syrup glaze provided a burst of colour and undercut the crème factor, the whole shebang dusted with icing sugar. A perfumed amber muscadet complemented this sugary romance. Mr C opted for the cheese board and polished off the assembled fromages with ardour (and a generous glug of port). A haze of contentment and flirtatiousness descended.

Itchy and Mr C locked eyes, grabbed our coats and swiftly ordered a cab.

Sarah Jappy

The Albany
7 George St
St Albans
AL3 4ER

01727 730888

www.albanyrestaurant.co.uk

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